Located in the Korea Town are of Los Angeles, Feng Mao Mutton Kebab is the epitome of diversity. The staff speak English, Korean, and Mandarin while serving Korean style panchan and kebabs inspired by the Uighur minority in the Chinese west. Cuisine from several distinct areas of Asia are expertly prepared and served just blocks from downtown Los Angeles. Moreover, these foods are prepared and served in a small, humble space by a staff who is intimately familiar with them. In addition to being a perfect example of diversity, and a great first post for this project, this particular food holds special significance for me.
羊肉串 (Yang Rou Chuanr) are characters that I first learned to read while I was in Beijing. I quickly learned that these simple characters led the way to the savory goodness of fresh lamb kebabs. Ubiquitous and cheap they became an obsession. For about one US dollar I could have a handful of kebabs and a cold beer. And it became my goal to try as many different vendors as I could. From the state run night market to the makeshift stand well off of the main road I tried kebabs that were all similar but also unique. They were, with a few exceptions, very good. Any why wouldn’t they be? They are simple and easy to prepare. Small pieces of lamb are impaled on a skewer and cooked over coals until golden brown and glistening. Once cooked they are seasoned with some salt, pepper, cumin, fennel, and paprika and ready for immediate consumption.
When I returned to the US I was distraught to find that this ubiquitous, addictive snack was nowhere to be found. After I had finally given up all hope of finding this savory snack in Los Angeles I stumbled upon a place that claimed to sell it. You can imagine my excitement as I waited for the waitress to deliver my sticks. And my disappointment when they were expensive and failed to meet my expectations. Several similar experiences made me jaded and unsure about whether I would ever enjoy this fine food again without a trip back the Beijing. How could something so simple be the source of such consternation?
I was jaded and cautious when I learned about Feng Mao. But the moment I stepped inside I was transported back to Beijing. The rectangular grills on each table reminded me of the makeshift grills on the streets of Beijing. The smell of grilled lamb filled the air. And the spice was a perfect mix of savory and spicy. I slipped the cooked bits of lamb from the skewer on to my plate, dipped a small morsel into the spice, and experienced the bliss that I had been seeking since I left Beijing.
Diners can order a variety of kebabs at Feng Mao, from the namesake lamb kebab to exotic items like bull penis. Some of the kebabs come in sets and others come individually. Lamb, for example comes as a plate of kebabs and bull penis individually. Be brave and order a variety of items. Just make sure to remember where you put them on the grill because they often look similar once they are cooked. Start with them directly over the fire until they are nicely browned and glistening and then move them to the convenient rack above the grill to keep them warm until you’re ready to eat them. Remember to be careful with the metal skewers because they can get pretty hot.
In addition to the kebabs there are a number of prepared dishes similar to what you would find in a Chinese restaurant. These include beef, lamb and pork dishes as well as smaller side dishes. Two dishes stand out for me, the onion pancake and the dumplings. The onion pancake is superb. It is crisp and flaky on the outside but thick enough to be slightly soft on the inside. The dumplings are listed on the menu as gou bu li baozi, a dumpling that originates in Tian Jian. It’s not a perfect reproduction of the Tian Jian classic, but it’s good dumpling nonetheless.
Feng Mao Mutton Kebab gets a thumbs up in my book. They have nice Korean panchan and the kebabs that are my crack. I will definitely be returning.
